When the story is fake: Koktebel winery, fake wines and marketing lessons
Itâs probably strange to see a post about a winery on HabrĂŠ (okay, beer), but in fact, weâll talk about storytelling and fact checking. The tour is based on the Koktebel vintage wine factory, which has many legends, tales and harmful marketing.
What is the Koktebel winery interesting in general? Here is the largest Madeira square in Europe, fairly modern equipment and an unusual fate, powdered by curious facts.
A little bit about what the legends are based on.
The history of the enterprise begins in 1875, when the renowned ophthalmologist professor Eduard Junge purchases plots along the seashore from impoverished Tatar nobles and organizes a winery. The valley sunk into his soul because of its outward resemblance to the Spanish province of Alicante.
Koktebel
Alicante
He received his first wine in 1879, and it is this date that now flaunts on the company's logo.
His son Alexander studied wine art at a special educational institution in Magarach (near Simferopol) for about five years! After he went on a two-year âinternshipâ to Europe (France, Germany, Austria, Italy, Spain, Portugal), where, among other things, he was employed in wineries for various positions. Upon his return in 1900, he worked for a couple of years in the Balti district (Odessa region) in the Plotiansky vineyard of Prince Trubetskoy. And then he continued the work of his father, who died in 1898.
It would seem that not physics or higher mathematics. Press the grapes, follow the process, experiment. However, yes, viticulture and winemaking are art. Here, how many do not study, everything will be small.
The legend is beautiful. However, an open-source check provides the following details: two well-known merchants on the land date back only to 1878 and 1880. The testimonies of travelers, who compiled a guide to the Crimea in 1883, indicate that some irrigation facilities for irrigating vineyards, which were only planned to be laid out on the slopes, were being built in the valley. Other evidence dating back to the year 95 indicates that Junge had a vineyard, but only on the southern slope of the hill. A small winery with a basement is also mentioned.
Large-scale production is launched by his son Alexander in the mid-1900s. With the exception of the mention of a thorough approach, no intelligible information was found about his success.
After all, vineyards need at least three years to grow, and guilt (we are not talking about monthly Beaujolais Nouveau) for at least six months to ripen. But this is just a seed to the main story.
Construction of the house of Alexander Junge
Alexander Junge's house now (right behind the trees)
Then there was the revolution of 1917. Most of the cellars, as in Massandra, did not manage to be walled up. And they were very quickly broken and plundered. They say that in an adult way. After that, the farm was abandoned for many years.
New people began to revive viticulture only in 1923. And it seems like even in another place (in a neighboring village 10 km from Koktebel). Whether the production was conducted in Koktebel itself is also not known. Most likely, only grapes were harvested here. But not for long.
In World War II, the greatest damage was done - 80% of Koktebel vineyards were simply bombed. However, the restoration began already in 1944. And, formally, the winery leads its history from that moment. Although until 1958 the entire production process was carried out in Massandra.
Continuity was twice completely interrupted. And indeed, in the period from 1917 to 1958 they were not involved in production here.
The main highlight of Koktebel is Europeâs largest open Madeira square (for aging wines at high temperatures), containing 1 million liters of wine (as it is written on the site, but the guide talked about 2 million).
Plus a winery, recognized at one time as a national treasure of Ukraine (friends, let's stay out of politics). The best wines from 1944 are stored here. They, at one time, were somehow dragged from the Massandra.
The total length of the tunnels with booths, where a constant temperature is maintained, is almost 1.4 km! In the 60s they were built by Metrostroy.
It's time to go to the bikes. And before us is a good opportunity to learn from the mistakes of others. It is based on the legend of the guide about the appearance of such a variety of wine as Madeira.
âTo whom it is not interesting to listen - they can be freeâ - this was an introduction addressed to adult uncles and aunts. Many conclusions can be drawn from it, but let's not rush. And here is the story itself.
A winemaker sends wine from Madeira Island to India. Upon arrival of the cargo, it turns out that the customer has died, and the heirs are not going to buy the goods. In general, a tragedy ( plus all sorts of exciting details that I omit ). As a result, the cargo floats back to the sender. Sailing. They donât know where to put it. They think that it has deteriorated ( for some reason they do not dare to try ). Winemaker goes bankrupt ( tragedy on the tragedy ). And already being at death ( again a tragedy ) gives an order to open the barrel and give him a sip on the sample ( why all of a sudden? ). Wine in fact turns out to be fantastic, everyone is recovering ( but this is no longer accurate ).
The next step is to repeat success. More precisely wine. Among the versions of how such a masterpiece could turn out, they deduce the main thing - the barrels were on the ship for a long time, and there was pitching. Let's rock the wine. Then comes a long story about how they rocked for many years, but something did not work out ( do you believe that? ). Then they put forward the following hypothesis - the barrels were on the deck, and the ship sailed all the time in warm waters, and even crossed the equator twice (the combination of heavy barrels on the deck and pitching seems to me an enchanting spectacle ). Those. wine barrels must be kept for a long time at a relatively high temperature. And then, voila, it worked!
Want a real Madeira story? Most likely, on a rocky island with moist soils there simply werenât normal places for cellars, and part of the wine was stored in open areas and attics.
Firstly, the story about the gouging kept the wine not according to the rules, and it suddenly turned out to be magnificent - much more realistic and closer to the Russian spirit. And itâs already possible to pour small details into a realistic story (itâs better if these are facts from production technology) - they will only add flavor to it.
Secondly, Madeira - the wine is really special. Personally, I am not a fan of sweet wines, but here the case is interesting. At first, wine is almost never allowed to roam. This process lasts only a couple of weeks (instead of a month or two), after which it is quenched with alcohol (at an ethanol concentration of more than 14%, wine yeast dies, fermentation stops). Then comes the bottling in barrels that are kept in a solarium (greenhouse) for six months or a year, and the temperature there sometimes reaches 50 ° C.
After the tanning bed, they lie for another three years in an open area. As a result, the sugar-amine reaction occurs in wine, which determines the amber color of the wine and the caramel-nut shades in taste and aroma.
Thirdly, the story about how the production process of that Madeira on the shelves of supermarkets with a price tag of 400 rubles differs from the one in barrels on the platform demonstrated to everyone would be a hit. And this is the fattest topic . Moreover, it can be submitted without compromising the image of any of the manufacturers.
What wine is made for 100-120 rubles, I fully imagine. A natural product starts at 180 rubles (at the time of sales). I have no questions about 180 ruble wines. They can be complained about, criticized, but they are honest. And the price is appropriate - the starting one.
The problem begins when somewhere in passing you take a bottle of dry rubles for 350, and inside there is something that has nothing to do with wine at all! And for a long time I was tormented by the question - why for 180 nonsense, but natural, but for 350 suddenly an unimaginable bottom. Over time, I found two answers.
The first option . Wine can be easily spoiled during fermentation. Not traced, fermentation stopped due to something, mold appeared on the surface, etc. In theory, this should be disposed of. But technologists and technologists are in order to get out of the most incredible situations.
In a backstage conversation, they told me that except the chief engineer-winemaker at the enterprise, no one knows what and when is added to a particular wort. Sulfur dioxide can be found in every bottle (otherwise, after you open it, you will get vinegar very quickly), but it seems to me that there are other âmagicâ means and methods that remove excess flora or correct all kinds of flaws.
The second option is barbaric. After squeezing the juice that goes into wine, sugar syrup and water are added to the remaining pulp. The taste of berries is. There is sugar for fermentation. What is the output is a question. It is possible that falls into the price range from 120 to 180 rubles.
In general, the plant has problems. They surfaced in 2010, when the company began to operate at a loss. In 2012, he was already declared bankrupt. I did not understand the reasons, but there can be many options here. Since 2015, the owners of the Gatchinsky distillery have leased the plant, and people who apparently have not so much knowledge in winemaking came to the management.
You can savor the details in this publication . In short, the team is falling apart, productivity is dropping, the quality is dropping, and the ears of âeffectiveâ marketing everywhere are hanging around with crazy ideas like growing vines from seeds (the output will be dusted hybrids with unknown âcharacteristicsâ and lack of immunity to diseases and pests ) And here are a couple of examples.
Tourist must be milked
Advertising is doing its job, and âtouristsâ are brought to the companyâs store at the factory by buses, who are then invited to excursions and paid tastings, where wines from the same store are presented.
If there is no sightseeing bus in the parking lot, the store has a turn of âonlyâ 15-20 minutes. But the funny thing is that if you go to any Crimean wine store, the entire range of ordinary Koktebel wines there will cost about 35-40 percent cheaper. Of course, all those who buy in the company feel then deceived.
New items such new items
Ordinary Koktebel wines, such as Cabernet and Pinot Fran, I have no particular complaints (well, except that a slight sourness pops up). But the new products, which the plant proudly announced in February of this year, were stupid. The blends of âjust redâ and âjust whiteâ at 300 rubles per test turned out to be exactly those wines that I wrote about in âMarketing History No. 2â. And it really surprised! Although, taking into account what is happening there, it turns out quite naturally.
Well, a few photos in the end.
In these tanks marija occurs (grape must for Madeira is combined with alcohol)
To the left of Madeira 1995 (pay attention to the deformation of the barrel), to the right of Madeira 2015
Line for separating berries from ridges
Here the juice is squeezed
The story from "1879" suggests that the legend should be based on facts and coincide with expectations. In our case, if the year on the logo of the enterprise is not the year of its foundation, it is important to give a reasoned explanation.
In storytelling, you need to use real stories. At the same time, an increase in the detail of the story will not hide the flaws, but rather will enhance the overall effect (positive or negative).
Well, an âeffective managerâ is a long-established meme. There will be no conclusions, I just wish you not to fall into such stories!
What is the Koktebel winery interesting in general? Here is the largest Madeira square in Europe, fairly modern equipment and an unusual fate, powdered by curious facts.
Marketing Story # 1: The 1879 Legend
A little bit about what the legends are based on.
Tour Guide Version
The history of the enterprise begins in 1875, when the renowned ophthalmologist professor Eduard Junge purchases plots along the seashore from impoverished Tatar nobles and organizes a winery. The valley sunk into his soul because of its outward resemblance to the Spanish province of Alicante.
Koktebel
Alicante
He received his first wine in 1879, and it is this date that now flaunts on the company's logo.
His son Alexander studied wine art at a special educational institution in Magarach (near Simferopol) for about five years! After he went on a two-year âinternshipâ to Europe (France, Germany, Austria, Italy, Spain, Portugal), where, among other things, he was employed in wineries for various positions. Upon his return in 1900, he worked for a couple of years in the Balti district (Odessa region) in the Plotiansky vineyard of Prince Trubetskoy. And then he continued the work of his father, who died in 1898.
Noteworthy in this story is 9 years of training and practice!
It would seem that not physics or higher mathematics. Press the grapes, follow the process, experiment. However, yes, viticulture and winemaking are art. Here, how many do not study, everything will be small.
What in fact
The legend is beautiful. However, an open-source check provides the following details: two well-known merchants on the land date back only to 1878 and 1880. The testimonies of travelers, who compiled a guide to the Crimea in 1883, indicate that some irrigation facilities for irrigating vineyards, which were only planned to be laid out on the slopes, were being built in the valley. Other evidence dating back to the year 95 indicates that Junge had a vineyard, but only on the southern slope of the hill. A small winery with a basement is also mentioned.
Large-scale production is launched by his son Alexander in the mid-1900s. With the exception of the mention of a thorough approach, no intelligible information was found about his success.
In this regard, the question arises, what kind of wine did Junge have in Koktebel in 1879?
After all, vineyards need at least three years to grow, and guilt (we are not talking about monthly Beaujolais Nouveau) for at least six months to ripen. But this is just a seed to the main story.
Construction of the house of Alexander Junge
Alexander Junge's house now (right behind the trees)
All over again
Then there was the revolution of 1917. Most of the cellars, as in Massandra, did not manage to be walled up. And they were very quickly broken and plundered. They say that in an adult way. After that, the farm was abandoned for many years.
New people began to revive viticulture only in 1923. And it seems like even in another place (in a neighboring village 10 km from Koktebel). Whether the production was conducted in Koktebel itself is also not known. Most likely, only grapes were harvested here. But not for long.
All over again, two
In World War II, the greatest damage was done - 80% of Koktebel vineyards were simply bombed. However, the restoration began already in 1944. And, formally, the winery leads its history from that moment. Although until 1958 the entire production process was carried out in Massandra.
Now you understand that there is nothing in this story from the inscription â1879â on the logo of the enterprise, hinting at the year of its foundation.
Continuity was twice completely interrupted. And indeed, in the period from 1917 to 1958 they were not involved in production here.
What is in fact
The main highlight of Koktebel is Europeâs largest open Madeira square (for aging wines at high temperatures), containing 1 million liters of wine (as it is written on the site, but the guide talked about 2 million).
Plus a winery, recognized at one time as a national treasure of Ukraine (friends, let's stay out of politics). The best wines from 1944 are stored here. They, at one time, were somehow dragged from the Massandra.
The total length of the tunnels with booths, where a constant temperature is maintained, is almost 1.4 km! In the 60s they were built by Metrostroy.
Storytelling
It's time to go to the bikes. And before us is a good opportunity to learn from the mistakes of others. It is based on the legend of the guide about the appearance of such a variety of wine as Madeira.
Tour Guide Version
âTo whom it is not interesting to listen - they can be freeâ - this was an introduction addressed to adult uncles and aunts. Many conclusions can be drawn from it, but let's not rush. And here is the story itself.
A winemaker sends wine from Madeira Island to India. Upon arrival of the cargo, it turns out that the customer has died, and the heirs are not going to buy the goods. In general, a tragedy ( plus all sorts of exciting details that I omit ). As a result, the cargo floats back to the sender. Sailing. They donât know where to put it. They think that it has deteriorated ( for some reason they do not dare to try ). Winemaker goes bankrupt ( tragedy on the tragedy ). And already being at death ( again a tragedy ) gives an order to open the barrel and give him a sip on the sample ( why all of a sudden? ). Wine in fact turns out to be fantastic, everyone is recovering ( but this is no longer accurate ).
The next step is to repeat success. More precisely wine. Among the versions of how such a masterpiece could turn out, they deduce the main thing - the barrels were on the ship for a long time, and there was pitching. Let's rock the wine. Then comes a long story about how they rocked for many years, but something did not work out ( do you believe that? ). Then they put forward the following hypothesis - the barrels were on the deck, and the ship sailed all the time in warm waters, and even crossed the equator twice (the combination of heavy barrels on the deck and pitching seems to me an enchanting spectacle ). Those. wine barrels must be kept for a long time at a relatively high temperature. And then, voila, it worked!
In general, they give you a strange fake, to hide which they use a method of piling up tons of small parts. As a result, the structure collapses and bury half of the minds present on the tour.
Want a real Madeira story? Most likely, on a rocky island with moist soils there simply werenât normal places for cellars, and part of the wine was stored in open areas and attics.
How then to tell if everything is ordinary?
Firstly, the story about the gouging kept the wine not according to the rules, and it suddenly turned out to be magnificent - much more realistic and closer to the Russian spirit. And itâs already possible to pour small details into a realistic story (itâs better if these are facts from production technology) - they will only add flavor to it.
Secondly, Madeira - the wine is really special. Personally, I am not a fan of sweet wines, but here the case is interesting. At first, wine is almost never allowed to roam. This process lasts only a couple of weeks (instead of a month or two), after which it is quenched with alcohol (at an ethanol concentration of more than 14%, wine yeast dies, fermentation stops). Then comes the bottling in barrels that are kept in a solarium (greenhouse) for six months or a year, and the temperature there sometimes reaches 50 ° C.
After the tanning bed, they lie for another three years in an open area. As a result, the sugar-amine reaction occurs in wine, which determines the amber color of the wine and the caramel-nut shades in taste and aroma.
Thirdly, the story about how the production process of that Madeira on the shelves of supermarkets with a price tag of 400 rubles differs from the one in barrels on the platform demonstrated to everyone would be a hit. And this is the fattest topic . Moreover, it can be submitted without compromising the image of any of the manufacturers.
Marketing Story # 2: where the incredibly bad wines come from for a lot of money
What wine is made for 100-120 rubles, I fully imagine. A natural product starts at 180 rubles (at the time of sales). I have no questions about 180 ruble wines. They can be complained about, criticized, but they are honest. And the price is appropriate - the starting one.
The problem begins when somewhere in passing you take a bottle of dry rubles for 350, and inside there is something that has nothing to do with wine at all! And for a long time I was tormented by the question - why for 180 nonsense, but natural, but for 350 suddenly an unimaginable bottom. Over time, I found two answers.
The first option . Wine can be easily spoiled during fermentation. Not traced, fermentation stopped due to something, mold appeared on the surface, etc. In theory, this should be disposed of. But technologists and technologists are in order to get out of the most incredible situations.
In a backstage conversation, they told me that except the chief engineer-winemaker at the enterprise, no one knows what and when is added to a particular wort. Sulfur dioxide can be found in every bottle (otherwise, after you open it, you will get vinegar very quickly), but it seems to me that there are other âmagicâ means and methods that remove excess flora or correct all kinds of flaws.
The second option is barbaric. After squeezing the juice that goes into wine, sugar syrup and water are added to the remaining pulp. The taste of berries is. There is sugar for fermentation. What is the output is a question. It is possible that falls into the price range from 120 to 180 rubles.
Marketing Story # 3: Effective Management
In general, the plant has problems. They surfaced in 2010, when the company began to operate at a loss. In 2012, he was already declared bankrupt. I did not understand the reasons, but there can be many options here. Since 2015, the owners of the Gatchinsky distillery have leased the plant, and people who apparently have not so much knowledge in winemaking came to the management.
You can savor the details in this publication . In short, the team is falling apart, productivity is dropping, the quality is dropping, and the ears of âeffectiveâ marketing everywhere are hanging around with crazy ideas like growing vines from seeds (the output will be dusted hybrids with unknown âcharacteristicsâ and lack of immunity to diseases and pests ) And here are a couple of examples.
Tourist must be milked
Advertising is doing its job, and âtouristsâ are brought to the companyâs store at the factory by buses, who are then invited to excursions and paid tastings, where wines from the same store are presented.
If there is no sightseeing bus in the parking lot, the store has a turn of âonlyâ 15-20 minutes. But the funny thing is that if you go to any Crimean wine store, the entire range of ordinary Koktebel wines there will cost about 35-40 percent cheaper. Of course, all those who buy in the company feel then deceived.
New items such new items
Ordinary Koktebel wines, such as Cabernet and Pinot Fran, I have no particular complaints (well, except that a slight sourness pops up). But the new products, which the plant proudly announced in February of this year, were stupid. The blends of âjust redâ and âjust whiteâ at 300 rubles per test turned out to be exactly those wines that I wrote about in âMarketing History No. 2â. And it really surprised! Although, taking into account what is happening there, it turns out quite naturally.
Well, a few photos in the end.
In these tanks marija occurs (grape must for Madeira is combined with alcohol)
To the left of Madeira 1995 (pay attention to the deformation of the barrel), to the right of Madeira 2015
Line for separating berries from ridges
Here the juice is squeezed
Brief conclusions about marketing and storytelling
The story from "1879" suggests that the legend should be based on facts and coincide with expectations. In our case, if the year on the logo of the enterprise is not the year of its foundation, it is important to give a reasoned explanation.
In storytelling, you need to use real stories. At the same time, an increase in the detail of the story will not hide the flaws, but rather will enhance the overall effect (positive or negative).
Well, an âeffective managerâ is a long-established meme. There will be no conclusions, I just wish you not to fall into such stories!
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