What can a watch do besides showing time and how to choose your first watch

What happens in the world of watchmaking, what modern watches can do and what you need to pay attention to when choosing your first watch, you will find answers to these questions in this article. If at some point in time you decided to buy a watch, but were horrified by their variety and do not know what to choose, then welcome to cat.









Modern watches have incredible additional features







What is this article about



I was inspired to write an article by my own desire to buy a watch and an article Attempt by an amateur to understand the watch market . In this article I will talk about what functions a modern watch performs, what you need to pay attention to when choosing a watch, and what modern manufacturers can offer.







Terminology



First, let's look at some watch terms in order to understand the characteristics of watches and their significance.









Types of mechanisms



Consider the main types of mechanisms and their features.







Quartz watch



The quartz watch was invented by Seiko in 1969. The principle of operation of such watches is extremely simple. The electronic unit of a quartz watch consists of a generator that generates electrical oscillations and a quartz crystal, at the resonant frequency of which the oscillations of the generator are stabilized. As a result, the generator signals are highly stable. The electronic circuit counts the signals of the generator and provides the turn of the arrows, or the output of information on the display. Sometimes the arrows and digital display are combined.









The most popular quartz watch manufacturers are Casio, Citizen, Seiko, Orient. The models shown in the pictures: Casio EQB-501DB-2A, Citizen BN0100-51E, Seiko SRPB51, Orient SZ46003W







Pros of quartz watches



High accuracy. Instead of an analog dial, a digital one can be used. Higher impact resistance and reliability of the mechanism. A wide variety of complications. Prices are lower than mechanical counterparts, start at several hundred rubles and reach hundreds of thousands. If you need long-term storage, just remove the battery and the watch can lie for years.







Cons of quartz watches



Maintainability is low. Service life rarely exceeds 15-20 years due to obsolescence of components. Finding a battery for a quartz watch from the late 90s is already difficult. They can operate on one battery from 6 months to three years, depending on the complications and features of the model.







The complication of quartz watches: Solar battery



Some quartz watches are equipped with a solar battery, which recharges the battery and increases the power reserve of the watch, which eliminates the need to change the battery. Remaining in complete darkness, such a watch can continue to work for up to 6 months. Advanced models have a "sleep" mode, in which the clock reduces energy consumption and can last up to four years. Citizen's most famous Eco-Drive technology. Mostly models of Japanese manufacturers are equipped with a solar battery, however, models from Swiss brands also began to appear.









Solar quartz watch of Citizen of the Eco-Drive series and Seiko Solar series







The complication of quartz watches: Auto Quartz



A massive load (rotor) of a special form “works” in such a watch, which rotates due to the movement of the owner’s hand and transmits the movement to the generator rotor, the generator generates electricity and charges the battery, the battery powers the quartz clock mechanism, and battery replacement is not required. Remaining motionless, such a watch can continue to work for several months. Advanced models have a “sleep” mode, in which the clock reduces energy consumption and can last up to 4 years.









Kinetic technology from Seiko and Autoquartz from Tissot







The complication of quartz watches: Thermal charging



The watch is powered by the heat of a human hand. Electricity in these models is generated due to the temperature difference between the back cover touching the human hand and the dial. The most famous Thermic and Eco-Drive Thermo technologies from Seiko and Citizen.









Seiko thermic







The complication of quartz watches: Radio synchronization



A quartz watch may have unrivaled accuracy, but it can still be in a hurry or lag a few seconds a month or even a week. The clock with radio synchronization has a built-in antenna. The antenna built into the watch receives a signal from 6 radio stations around the world, and the time is automatically adjusted. Radio stations are synchronized with GMT (UTC), which is set by atomic clocks. Atomic time is considered the most accurate time among all existing. The technology of atomic clocks uses the principle of natural vibrations that occur at the level of atoms and molecules. Atoms are constantly moving to a different energy level. During each of these transitions, electromagnetic radiation is emitted. It is a constant amount of these emissions for a certain period of time that is considered to be a reference second. For accurate measurement, the cesium-133 atom is used, because it is the only stable isotope. The error of this time does not exceed 30 nanoseconds, or in simple words - within 30 million years, the watch will lag a maximum of 1 second. An example of such technology can be found in Casio watches, it is called Multiband 6. You can buy such watches from 5000 rubles, for example, Casio WV-58E-1A.







Mechanical



Invented at the end of the 17th century, this watch retained the principle of its work and over time became only more accurate, reliable and acquired additional functions. The basis of the mechanism is a running spring, which gradually unwinds and moves the arrows through the gear system and balancing ring. The speed of unwinding of the spring and the accuracy of the clock determines the balance. The accuracy of the stroke depends on many factors, including humidity, pressure, magnetic fields and gravity. Protection from magnetic fields and shock is present in most mechanical watches in one form or another. High quality models are protected against all of these factors, including gravity (see tourbillon).







Despite the difference in prices, the same caliber can work in watches for 400,000 rubles and 30,000. The difference in price, in this case, is explained by the prestige of the brand, the unique design of the watch itself and the presence of various complications. In other cases, more expensive watches have more advanced technologies, complications and workmanship.









A. Lange & Sohne 145.032F Zeitwerk Striking Time







Pros of a mechanical watch



Prices start at several thousand rubles. Maintainability is extremely high, inexpensive models are easily repaired by any watchmaker, expensive models are sent to special certified services. They require periodic servicing every 3-7 years, depending on the model. Very long life, some 1930 mechanical watches still work and resell at fabulous prices. Subjectively: the working clockwork mesmerizes and the ticking of a mechanical watch has its own special lamp. As they say, a mechanical watch has a soul. Well, grandchildren can be inherited.







Cons of mechanical watches



Prices can reach hundreds of millions of rubles. Ordinary models require a daily plant, preferably at the same time, but there are very few of them now. The accuracy of the stroke depends on many factors, including humidity, pressure, magnetic fields and gravity. The most accurate mechanical watches rarely have an accuracy higher than that of a not very expensive quartz watch. Impact resistance is an order of magnitude lower than that of any quartz movement.







The complication of mechanical watches: Automatic



In case of manual winding, the running spring of the watch is twisted using the crown of the watch - manually. In an automatic winding plant, a massive cargo of a special shape "works", which rotates due to the movement of the hand of the owner of the watch. The rotor transfers rotational energy to the running spring. With everyday wear, the watch does not require manual winding at all. The power reserve of hours without movement is usually 40-70 hours.









The Omega Seamaster Skyfall watch worn by James Bond







Characteristics



Now let's look at the features of the main characteristics of both types of watches.







Body



Material



Plastic







The cheapest of all materials. Ordinary plastic, quickly deteriorates, scratches and even breaks. Some companies use high-quality plastic, including Casio G-SHOCK models.









Cheap Chinese watches are mainly made of plastic.







Alloy (Aluminum with Zinc)







Production of hulls from alloy is made by casting. The method minimizes waste and production costs. This alloy is quite soft, has an unsightly gray appearance and is rough to the touch. Such cases require additional protective coating, which is used as a nickel. Nickel is not used for finishing watches, as direct contact with the skin can lead to allergies and skin diseases. Therefore, a decorative coating is applied on top of the nickel layer. As it wears out, people prone to allergies begin to feel discomfort. Now watches from this alloy are practically not produced.







Brass (Copper with Zinc)







About 90% of Soviet watches are made of brass. The cost of the cases made from it is much more than from the alley. But the quality of the products is higher. However, brass, coming into contact with air and human skin, is quite easily oxidized, acquiring an unsightly appearance. In this regard, brass bodies need an additional protective and decorative coating, which is not as fast as in the case of an alley, but it is erased.







The chrome-plated brass bodies do not outwardly differ from the steel ones. You can find out that brass was used in the production by the inscription on the back of the watch “brass” or “base metal case”.









BOLDR Voyager Aegean







Stainless steel







In recent years, brass is increasingly replaced by steel. It is used primarily for watches of the mid-price range, increasingly penetrating into the "luxury" segment. Steel does not cause irritation or allergies, is not subject to corrosion and is resistant to damage. The best steel for watches is 316L. Steel watches do not require additional coating, but may have it. You can find out that stainless steel was used in the production by the inscription on the back of the watch "stainless steel case".









Steel watch Patek Philippe Ref 1518 worth 730 million rubles







Titanium







The watch cases made of titanium, as well as those made of steel, do not require additional use of a protective coating, they are lighter than steel and more resistant to scratches. A titanium watch, however, may have an additional coating layer, significantly increasing protection against scratches and abrasion. A distinctive feature of the titanium case is a light gray color. The use of polishing and grinding in the manufacturing process makes titanium watches virtually indistinguishable from stainless steel watches.









Casio MRG-G1000DC-1ADR and TAG Heuer titanium watches CAR2A8A.BF0707







Ceramics







Ceramics is positioned as a super strong and scratch-resistant material that can easily withstand high temperatures, shaking and pressure drops. Ceramic is really not afraid of scratches, although it is prone to chips. The material is not as heavy as steel or gold, so it does not hurt to do everyday business. Ceramic watches do not change color after many years of wear, will never cause allergies and certainly will not go unnoticed.









Ceramic watch company Tag Heuer WAY1396.BH0717 and WAY1390.BH0716







Precious metals







The most expensive materials for the manufacture of watches are precious metals. Precious material can significantly increase the cost of hours. Wrist watches made of gold, platinum or silver are works of watch and jewelry art.









Golden Rolex Rainbow and Platinum Omega Speedmaster Moonphase







Coating



PVD (Physical vapor deposition)







Under the abbreviation PVD, several spray coating methods are combined by direct condensation of the vapor of the applied material. The PVD coating is created by sputtering titanium or zirconium molecules on the main body material. As a result, a thin molecular film is formed, making the watch wear-resistant and corrosion resistant. In this case, the structure and properties of other materials are not violated. PVD film up to 5 microns thick fits snugly and does not contain microcracks. Today it is one of the most common processing methods. Watches coated with a layer of molecules using PVD technology, on average, retain their original appearance for at least 10-15 years.







IP (Ion plating)







One of the varieties of PVD. An IP-coating is created by spraying ions of a strong metal (titanium or its alloys) onto a watch case and bracelet. An additional hypoallergenic layer is created between the two metals. Such a coating is considered the most resistant to external influences. In terms of life, IP and PVD coatings are generally identical. The main difference between IP and PVD is the presence of another additional layer, it allows you to give the surface any color, depending on the color of the dye used in the installation that produces the coating process.







DLC (Diamond-like-carbon)







One of the best varieties of coating. Translated from English means "Carbon with diamond properties." DLC is applied to the metal by a vacuum capacitor, but unlike the classic black PVD, which is often based on titanium carbide, in the DLC, the metal surface is protected by a special carbon film that is comparable in strength to its closest relative - diamond. The result is a watch case that is resistant to severe mechanical damage. A carbon coating with diamond properties also provides increased resistance to electricity and chemicals.







Case size



It is recommended to choose the size of the body based on the circumference of the wrist.







Wrist girth, cm Case Diameter, mm
fifteen 38
16 38-40
17 40-42
eighteen 42-44
19+ 44-46 +


Strap



Changing the strap is a great way to change the style of your watch. Changing the strap for different types of clothes and activities, you can perfectly complement your style and diversify the look. Do not overtighten the strap on your hand. Remember a simple rule: the index finger should creep between the strap and the hand without strong pressure.







Material



Metal







The metal bracelet must be made of the same material as the watch case. The characteristics of the materials are the same. The cost of models with metal bracelets is usually higher than models with straps. The metal bracelet looks great on a large wrist. It is not recommended for use in salt water, after contact with salt water, it is necessary to rinse with fresh water and dry.









Metal bracelets are usually used from the same material as the case.







Leather







The straps are made from all possible types of skin, including stingray, ostrich, anaconda, alligator and even perch skin. Their cost is also very different. Leather straps wear much faster than metal bracelets and carry moisture and sweat worse. But it is the leather straps that sit most conveniently on the hand and even a nondescript watch can look much better if you select the leather strap correctly.









Genuine leather, ostrich, stingray and perch leather straps







Rubber







Often used in diving and sports watches. It calmly transfers any water, does not conduct current, does not break when stretched, is not afraid of sweat. Soft and pleasant to the touch. They last longer than leather straps, but not by much.







Rubber straps are best for sports







Silicone







Withstand sudden changes in temperature, high humidity, collisions with certain chemicals, are popular in fashion watches. They last longer than rubber and softer to the touch. They require careful care so as not to lose their appearance.







Silicone straps are very similar to rubber, but softer to the touch







Carbon







Carbon in strength and lightness is comparable to titanium. It looks very brutal. He is also not afraid of water, but against the background of the instability of the material to scratches and the tendency to quickly lose its presentation, all the advantages of carbon are somewhat lost. On the hand, the carbon strap is almost not felt.









Carbon straps are very light and durable, great for outdoor recreation







Textile







Many watches have models with fabric straps; fabric, unlike leather, is not afraid of water and does not lose shape. The most common type of fabric straps is the NATO strap, which is sometimes equipped with sports models of luxury Swiss brands.









The most commonly used textile straps are NATO straps.







Ceramics







It comes with a ceramic case, namely a ceramic strap. The characteristics are the same as those of a ceramic case.









Ceramic straps, like metal ones, are used with the same case.







Glass



Material



Plastic (hezalite, plexiglass)







The simplest material for watch glass. Shockproof, bend but not crack. Scratches are easy to polish. Sometimes used in diving watches, as they tolerate high pressure. Over time, plastic glass may become cloudy and yellow.









The legendary Casio F-91W as well as the AEQ-110W-1B use plastic glass







Mineral







The most common glass. They are scratch resistant, but can crack at high pressure. This type of glass is used in watches of the budget and mid-price range. Mineral glasses of increased strength exist: a special hard coating makes the glass more resistant to mechanical damage. One of the options for such glasses (hardlex) is used in many models of Seiko.









Orient Mako AA02005D and Seiko Astron SSE079







Sapphire







Sapphire crystal is almost impossible to scratch. However, the hardness of the material makes sapphire crystal very fragile at the same time. It breaks easier than plastic or mineral. They cost more than the rest.









Breitling Chrono Avenger E13360 and Chronomat AB01154G / BD13 / 101W







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Watches for diving. They differ in water protection from 200 meters, a rubber strap and a rotating bezel. When diving, the bezel aligns with the minute hand and makes it easy to track the duration of the dive. Arrows and domed glass often also have very strong fluorescence. A distinguishing feature is an inverted triangle at 12 o’clock and large fluorescent circles as indices.









Girard-Perregaux's Sea Hawk and famous Seiko SKX007







Fashionable



They have a stylish design and often have an overestimated price due to the brand. Characteristics are almost always much lower than similar models of the same price category. It is recommended to buy such a watch only if you really like the brand or want to stand out with a beautiful design.









Quite popular brands Daniel Wellington and MVMT







Sports



They have a bright design and good ergonomics. A sports watch can not only have a sporty style, but also be very functional. The Casio G-SHOCK series is one of the most popular for any sports.









Sports watch TAG Heuer and Casio G-SHOCK







Brands and prices



Everyone knows the Swiss watch with its unsurpassed quality and recognition. But few people know that Swiss watches occupy only 2.5% of the watch market. And in quality and manufacturability, the Japanese have long been competing with the Swiss, offering excellent quality at reasonable prices. Americans are not far behind and offer many series of watches with notes of American culture. Price categories in watches are usually divided into several steps. The listed brands are quite popular in each category, but not the only ones in it. Many watches from the same category are found in the categories below and above, but in the form of separate models and exceptions.







Ordinary watch



Prices : up to 30,000

Popular Brands: Swiss Military, Citizen, Timex, Nautica, Casio, Seiko, Orient, Stuhrling

Description: Consumer goods of the watch world, mass models of affordable price and decent quality, among them you can find watches for every taste and color without claiming genius and "heritage". Many of these watches have some history and are quite popular, some models have become legendary and recognizable throughout the world.









Citizen NB0040-58A ($ 400), Seiko SNKN73 ($ 301), Swiss Military Hanowa 06-5233.04.007 ($ 305), Orient TW04001W ($ 300)







The beginning of the middle segment



Prices : up to 100,000

Popular Brands: Hamilton, Raymond Weil, Tissot, Victorinox, Atlantic, Auguste Reymond, Buran, Mido, Certina, Bulova

Description: In this segment, watches are no longer just watches and they already have some kind of history, these brands have some kind of heritage and they are more or less recognizable. Such watches will serve you for decades and can become reliable partners in your life.









M0246301104100 ($ 785), Auguste Reymond AR7682.6.210.5 ($ 900), Tissot PR 100 Powermatic 80 ($ 625), Hamilton HML-H69419363 ($ 475)







Middle segment



Prices : up to 400,000

Popular Brands: Brellum, Fortis, Longines, Oris, Alpina, Frédérique Constant, Sinn, Junghans, Rado, TAG Heuer

Description: Here you can find high quality watches with a history, a famous name and excellent service. Such watches are no longer just bought, they are being hoarded, they are wanted, they are admired. Watches from this segment can be the gem of your collection. This watch is the limit for most normal people, spending more than 400 thousand for a watch does not make sense if this watch does not help you make more money.









Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph ($ 4,950), Alpina AL-525LBG4V6B ($ 1,050), Junghans Meister ($ 2,495), Sinn 103 A Sa B ($ 2,600)







Top segment start



Prices : up to 1,000,000

Popular Brands: Breitling, Cartier, Corum, IWC Schaffhausen, Montblanc, Omega, Rolex, Panerai

Description: Luxury consumer goods, well-known brands that have left their mark on the history of watchmaking. Such a watch can often be seen in the hands of many businessmen who need to impress their business partners and win the trust of investors.









Breitling Chronomat CB0110 ($ 10,000), Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT ($ 17,000), Rolex M116610LN ($ 9,000), IWC Schaffhausen IW503301 ($ 34,000)







High segment



Prices : up to 3,000,000

Popular Brands: Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, Jaeger LeCoultre, GlashĂŒtte, Dewitt, Breguet, Blancpain, Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne, Ulysse Nardin

Description: A watch with a claim to genius. These brands have a long history, are pioneers of various complications and have earned an honorable place in the history of watchmaking.

Watches of these brands are works of art and standards of watchmaking.









Patek Philippe 5396R-012 ($ 43,000), Vacheron Constantin Overseas ($ 12,000), Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ($ ​​285,000), Ulysse Nardin 1713-139 ($ 22,000)







Until the money runs out



Prices : from 3,000,000

Brands: RW Smith, LEROY, Bexei, Richard Mille, Bovet, Greubel Forsey, Louis Moinet, Jacob & Co

Description: Watches of these brands are little known in wide circles, but they cost millions and are published in limited editions. They are of high value to collectors.









Richard Mille RM 57-01 ($ 500,000), Louis Moinet Space Mystery ($ 195,000), Greubel Forsey GMT ($ 605,000), Jacob & Co Astronomia ($ 280,000)







Recommendations, tips and more



Watch snobbery



A prejudice against another person, based on the brand or the value of its hours, is snobbery and bigotry. Unfortunately, this phenomenon is widespread in the world of watch lovers. People who bought watches of a certain brand or a certain price category sometimes consider all owners of watches costing less or even just another brand worse than their status / prestige, even if this is obviously not so. Remember, a watch will not make you more prestigious and statusier than you already are, a watch can only emphasize this level, but not increase it. Your status and prestige are determined by your manners, your speech, your personal achievements and education, but not for hours.







Remember Gogol's story "The Overcoat"? Do not turn a watch into a cult. No need to starve and endure terrible privations for the sake of buying watches. Do not wear watches that will attract more attention than yourself. Watches should complement your style, be a laconic continuation of your image and go well with everything else. There are many opinions about how much it costs to spend on a watch. My personal opinion: choose a watch that you can afford. They should not be a precious treasure that you will be afraid to wear.

Do not be snobs, all watch lovers share a common hobby, it doesn’t matter whether you wear Philippe Patek or Casio, we all have a common passion. I calmly wear the Casio F-91W, simply because they are cool. This is a watch with its own history, a legend watch, for 900 rubles ... And because the blue border on the watch goes well with the blue elements on the shirt.







Which hand to wear the watch



If you are right handed - on the left. If you are left-handed - on the right. Or vice versa, if you are right-handed - on the right and if you are left-handed - on the left. Both options are acceptable, wear as you like.







How to wear a watch



The strap should sit behind the bone on the wrist. Otherwise, the watch will put pressure on the hand and it will be uncomfortable for you to move the hand.









In this position, the watch will be comfortable to wear and will not interfere







Why do we need a watch at all?



This question was heard by any owner of a watch. Why do they even need when time can always be viewed on a smartphone, there it is already synchronized and accurate. I have on my hands both an analog watch and a fitness bracelet. When asked why I need a watch, if the fitness bracelet shows the exact time, I reply that I do not understand the time on the dial.

And why do people wear watches in the modern world? Let's consider several options.







To make it beautiful



Some people wear watches for beauty, like glasses without diopters. Just to complement the style with a beautiful accessory and look good. Often, at the same time, a watch of a fashion brand that matches the style is selected (Hugo Boss, MVMT, Guess, and others). Sometimes such a fashion accessory turns into a deeper interest in watches and people fall into the category of "Lamp".







Convenience and Functionality



Quickly checking the time, looking at your hand, is much faster and more convenient than reaching into your pocket behind the phone. Especially on the street. Especially in the cold. There are people for whom competent time management is extremely important for everyday life and work. They need a convenient way to monitor the time constantly, without having to go into your pocket and check the phone. Often, such people choose the most accurate quartz watches with a good level of strength and water resistance, so as not to think about the safety of watches in general. I often use the timer and alarm functions in the clock, it’s faster and more convenient for me to set the timer on the clock than to look for where I’m doing my phone, look for the timer application there and so on, but this is a matter of habit.







Tube



There are people who like watches, especially mechanical ones. They like a little vintage, this is the ticking mechanism, the accuracy of its movement. They like to think about how someone collected this watch manually, how he put a little of his soul into it. Such people may have a small collection of watches, selected according to some characteristics, these people wear such watches from time to time. Every watch is dear to them and valuable, they don’t need to collect watch boxes and store them on a shelf, these people enjoy the watch and wear it every day.







Because it's crazy!



There are people who admire watches as works of watchmaking. They are ready to collect them, buy rare pieces for big money, painstakingly study every detail. They are delighted with mechanical watches and most likely have a separate box of especially favorite watches and rare models. And such people are unlikely to read this article.







Prestige



There are people who buy watches to emphasize their level of prestige or status. This can be directors from the level, senior managers, other managers and businessmen. All people who need to make a good impression when meeting. Such people often buy expensive enough watches to show their level of income, and that their business is profitable and very reliable. If you do not need to impress investors and gain the trust of business partners at a meeting - this story is not about you.







If you care what people think of you, if you walk with a cheap watch, do an experiment. In everyday life, try to find people with a watch and determine which watch they wear. What brand, what model, how much they cost. You will find that this is not so easy to do. Especially without looking at the hand with the watch close, unless of course it is Rolex, which was created so as to be recognizable from 5 meters.







Conclusion



A watch is not only a tool for measuring time, it is also a work of watchmaking. A watch can be a beautiful addition to style, an amazing device that can attract attention and become the beginning of a conversation, can be a functional tool, a reliable assistant in everyday affairs or a presentation of your status. Having chosen a watch, study their brand, its history, how these watches were created, feel the spirit of these watches, and they will bring you joy. I hope that after reading this article you learned something new for yourself, which means that the day has not passed in vain! As the survey showed in the article “About watches , 51.2%” people wear watches, and this is more than half of the readers. Perhaps it is you who will make the advantage even more.







Post scriptum



I hope that after reading this article you will want to stop by the watch store the next time you want to go into it, just look ... And you will leave it a happy owner of a watch that will delight you every day.








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